The American Sharpe Page 16

  11th The enemy are still in situ. I rode over the position, nothing can be stronger by nature.

  James was certainly one of the first allowed into Toulouse and he later saw the Duke enter in triumph.

  12th The enemy are all off. They retired their rearguard at about 3 o’clock. I was ordered, being first for command to go to the rear with the wounded of the division, luckily for me their destination was changed to Toulouse, so that I got over my command without the least trouble; I left the division & went after to the bridge on the canal, nobody was allowed into the place. General Picton was there and there was an inhabitant who had come out with the white cockade & scarf.

  I soon after got into Toulouse and went up to the Place de Commerce where there was an immense crowd assembled, most of the[m] with the white cockade; the white flag was flying over the bust of Napoleon on the top of the Capitoleum which is a beautiful building outside37. The Garde Bourgeois38 were on duty at all the gates & saluted every British officer that entered. The people were anxiously expecting Lord Wellington who soon after came in & was very well received.

  General Hill’s corps crossed the bridge and marched through the city to the front, the 4th & 6th Divisions also marched on. Towards evening our division was cantoned in the suburbs beyond the canal.

  Came in to the city in the evening to dine at the Hotel d’Angleterre and heard to my great astonishment that Bonaparte had been obliged to abdicate the throne and that Louis XVIII had been proclaimed in Paris, that news had just arrived39. Went to the theatre after dinner and the same intelligence was read on the stage and some articles from the new constitution, amidst the applauses of the audience. Bonaparte has signed his abdication and is to receive a certain annuity, I heard 6 million livres & is to reside in some island in the Mediterranean40.

  The theatre is neat, well attended, the performers and scenery very good, they have the same abominable custom of putting the prompter among the lamps as in Spain & Portugal.

  Toulouse is an excellent city abundantly supplied with everything, but it is by no means so handsome as Madrid, which I still think is the handsomest city I ever saw. The city itself has gates at every entrance as at Madrid, but they are very different, those of Madrid are beautiful and form the principal ornaments of the city, those of Toulouse are dirty wooden things. Toulouse is surrounded everywhere by suburbs which are as well built as the city itself. The bridge over the Garonne is very neat, it is of stone & consists of arches. The celebrated canal of Languedoc which commences here has several bridges over it.

  The cathedral is very plain, it has some painted glass which is however nothing extraordinary. The organ is very large but not showy at all. The streets are narrow, crooked and like a French town, paved entirely with round stones having no flagged pavement for foot passengers.

  13th Changed our quarters today to this side of the canal, better houses. Went to the theatre. Beautiful weather.

  14th Colonel Coghlan of the 61st was buried today41, his funeral was attended by all the officers of the Light Division & by Lord Wellington & all the Staff. The service was first read in the Protestant chapel which is a very plain but neat building.

  Lord Wellington gives a ball tonight, the paper with which the walls of rooms is papered uncommonly beautiful, superior to anything I ever saw in England.

  15th Lord Wellington & Marshal Soult are in correspondence concerning the cessation of hostilities, but it seems they cannot agree.

  The people here say that Soult after having lost his position wished to hold Toulouse to the last, but was opposed by Count d’Armagnac42 who is a native of this place & Clausel43. General Taupin was killed44 & General d’Harispe wounded45, d’Harispe has remained here.

  Marshal Soult adamantly refused to accept a ceasefire until he received formal notification of the end of hostilities. Wellington therefore sent his forces in pursuit of the French army, his troops however were clearly not keen.

  16th Marshal Soult refuses to act pacifically until he gets an official dispatch from Paris which it seems he has not yet got, so that we shall march to the front tomorrow, we are very sorry for it.

  17th March at 5 o’clock, followed by the 3rd Division through Castanet [Tolosan], Donneville & Baziege, beyond which we encamped. Just as we got to our camp ground which was beside the main road, we saw a carriage and four horses attended by one English & 3 French dragoons going as hard as they could towards Toulouse. This was Count Gazan46 and another officer going from Soult to Lord Wellington.

  18th Very high wind. Took a ride through Montesquieu & Villenouvelle, in the evening we went into houses near [Blank], as we were marching to our quarters we met Count Gazan coming back again. Soult has agreed to an armistice.

  Marshal Soult finally agreed to an armistice and this seemingly interminable war eventually came to a close. Wellington’s army returned to Toulouse and then moved to the west, the 95th being cantoned at Castelsarrasin for some six weeks.

  19th Halted all day.

  20th Marched through Toulouse to Lanarget, a nice village about 4 miles from Toulouse.

  With the ending of the fighting, it seems that things began to unravel with great rapidity for the French. Only a few days later they were encountering not only large numbers of French troops returning to their homes, but also numbers of released prisoners of war.

  21st Through Saint Jory & Castelnau [d’Estretefonds] to Pompignan, met several diligences on the road today. Met some of the Imperial Guard who came from Paris which they left on the 9th. We met an immense number of French soldiers most of them with the white cockade, who have left their regiments and are going home. Met also some Spaniards who have been prisoners going to Spain. Billeted on an inn, we made a party & got a dinner, very fair one, an excellent inn.

  22nd Through Grisolles, Dieupentale, Monbequi, Finhan, St Martin [Belcasse], to Castelsarrasin, which is I hear to be our cantonment until the peace is concluded. It is a very nice little city, the people remarkably civil. We have excellent quarters, the 52nd are here besides ourselves. We are 3 leagues from Montauban where there is a French garrison under General Loverdo47, a worthy colleague of Soult’s, he refused to take the white cockade until compelled to do it by the inhabitants and we are 10 leagues from Toulouse. There are regular diligences from here to Toulouse which go in 8 hours. The females here are much better looking than in Toulouse.

  23rd Had our band on the promenade this evening by the request of the inhabitants. There is to be a grand fete here in 8 days, that being the day of the patron saint of this place. We have established a regimental mess at one of the inns.

  24th A Te Deum was sung in the church on account of the restoration of the Bourbons at which the British officers were present by the request of the inhabitants.

  There has been a conspiracy to carry off or kill Lord Wellington. General St Hilaire48 who was left behind when Soult retired and remained concealed for some time in Toulouse, his principal coadjutor was a noted advocate; how he was discovered I have not heard, but he is now in prison.

  25th A French division came into Moissac about a league from this to canton. Some of our officers were there when they came in, they were very sulky and on seeing some of the inhabitants who had a black cockade within the white in compliment to the English, they tore it out. There are several people heard in the evenings when drunk in the inns to cry Vive l’Empereur.

  26th Some officers of the 82nd49 were at Moissac today & were turned out by General Rey50 the commanding officer. Some of our officers were at Montauban where they were very well received. Our mess dissolved today.

  27th I rode to Moissac, there is a sentry there to prevent any British officer from going in. Rode down the bank of the Tarn to its junction with the Garonne, the banks of these two rivers are uncommonly beautiful, the opposite bank of the Tarn is high and rugged, this bank is flat & highly fertile & cultivated. Moissac is on the other side of the river, there has been a bridge there some years ago but there is only a ferry now.


  28th I rode to Montauban today, waited on General Count Reille the senior officer51, to request his permission to see the place which he granted very politely, he is a handsome fine looking man. He was walking in his garden with two other generals, they all wore the white cockade. Montauban is a very nice place, it is situated on the right bank of the Tarn over which is a bridge. It is [a] much better built and nicer city than Toulouse & about half the size of it. The French had begun to cut up the streets & fortify the entrances to it.

  29th Blank

  30th There is a great fair here today.

  May

  1st This being the day of the patron saint of Castelsarrasin there were great rejoicings here, processions, te deum &c.

  Rode to Montech where the 43rd are cantoned & returned, a beautiful ride along the bank of the Garonne, it is a heavenly country. At night we had the long promised ball given by the inhabitants, it was very well attended & went off admirably well.

  2nd Rode to Moissac, we are now permitted to enter, it is rather larger than Castelsarrasin but not so well built.

  3rd To Montauban, the Duke d’Angouleme is to pass through there on the 6th.

  4th – 5th Blank

  6th To Montauban, the streets were hung with garlands & inscriptions & lamps hung for illuminations in honour of the arrival of the prince which took place at about dark. Before he entered the town he reviewed some troops, at his entrance the illustrations commenced which were very good. He went to the cathedral, in the evening there was a ball to which I went & had a distinct view of him & also of Marshals Soult & Suchet who accompanied him.

  7th The Duke d’Angouleme & the two marshals reviewed the garrisons of Montauban, Moissac &c this morning, after having seen this we returned to Castelsarrasin. I have often heard much of French discipline, but I observed in the ranks this day the same improper familiarity between the officers & men that there is in the Spanish & Portuguese armies, as for the French officers, they [are] anything but gentlemen. The soldiers were very fine looking men & well dressed. The duke after the review went off for Bordeaux. Soult & Suchet are two as vulgar looking fellows as I ever set eyes on.

  There was a French garrison at Castelsarrasin which caused some friction with Wellington’s troops, the French officers being particularly surly regarding the recent defeat. But the local populace happily welcomed the British soldiers and engaged with them in every imaginable social activity.

  8th We the officers of the garrison gave a ball this night.

  9th The number of lame people here is wonderful & it prevails more particularly among the lower order of people.

  It would seem that many lost their hearts to the beauties of Castelsarrasin and James was apparently close to losing his.

  10th Took a ride out into the country with a party of ladies. The society of this place is delightful, the females are exceedingly pleasant & agreeable, they have the complete French manner in which I have seen nothing loose or improper, nothing that I should be sorry to see in my own wife or sister & they have a great deal of vivacity & badinage which the British females want & which renders them more insipid. There are several good families here & it is sufficient to be a British officer to be received by each of them as one of its members. I never spent so delightful a time since I have been a soldier. Though not yet absolutely in love, I dread the thought of leaving this place even to go to England.

  With the end of the war in Europe, many regiments now found themselves being shipped to North America to fight the Americans who were attempting to capture Canada.

  11th Several regiments are going to America but none of our division are among the number.

  12th Blank

  13th Rain

  14th The picnic which we were to have had tomorrow is put off until the 17th. Rain.

  15th Blank

  16th The soldiers acted a play this evening.

  17th We had a picnic in a large meadow on the bank of the Garonne near Saint Porquier, with horse racing & dancing, we passed a most delightful day.

  18th – 21st Blank

  22nd Rain

  23rd Rain

  24th Rain. The inhabitants gave us a picnic in an old abbey (now a dwelling house) called Belle Perche52 on the other side of the Garonne. Delightful day. We danced also at night at Castelsarrasin.

  25th Rain.

  The difficult relations with the French garrisons got steadily worse.

  26th The officers of the French garrison at Montauban have behaved in a very blackguard way to some of our officers, telling them that they were tired of seeing the English, turned them out of the place & desired never to see them again. The inhabitants took [their] part with our officers against the French officers. There is an order from General Alten forbidding British officers to enter towns occupied by the French.

  27th – 28th Blank

  29th Te deum sung today in honour of the restoration of the Bourbons.

  News arrived that the army was to march for the coast. This appears to have been received with great regret by the troops, certainly James makes it clear that he would leave Castelsarrasin with greater regret than anywhere else he had ever been.

  30th We have this day received the order to march the day after tomorrow. I never felt such regret at the thought of quitting a place in my life. I quitted England and my family with delight when I set off to join the army in the peninsula but the thought of leaving Castelsarrasin perhaps never to see it more, gives me greater pain that [sic] I could have thought possible.

  31st We were to have had a picnic today but in consequence of our departure tomorrow it was changed to a ball, it was a melancholy one.

  June

  1st The regiment marched to Montech at 7 o’clock, I followed at about 3, promising to return in a day or two as we do not go far from this for the first 3 or four days. The departure of the British troops from here is universally & sincerely regretted.

  2nd Marched to Bourret where we crossed the Garonne at a ferry. Bourret is a small but pretty little village where the 94th53 were quartered while we were at Castelsarrasin. I rode back to Castelsarrasin.

  3rd The 52nd Regiment marched this morning to Lafitte. I remained here all day, the gentlemen of the town gave a dinner to all the British officers, here there were 16 lingerers sat down to it. Storm this evening.

  4th Remained at Castelsarrasin.

  James was forced to prise himself away from Castelsarrasin at last and catch up with his battalion on the march. Finally he admits the cause of his regret; a young beauty had stolen his heart.

  5th I tore myself away from Castelsarrasin at last & I can say that I never left any place with such real regret in my life. I am convinced that which is expressed by the inhabitants is sincere. I never spent so delightful a period as that I have spent in this place. I have formed attachments, one in particular that I shall never either regret or forget & I am convinced I have left one person behind me here who I am sure will not forget me & whom if ever I forget may I never be blessed with beauty’s smile again.

  Had a melancholy ride to Tournecoupe (through Lafitte) where I overtook the regiment. Tournecoupe is a paltry little village but beautifully situated on a commanding height which overlooks a delightful valley through which runs a stream. It has the ruins of a castle. Country well cultivated & in some places hilly.

  6th To Lectoure a very nice town situated in the same manner as Lectoure [did he mean to say Tournecoupe?] on a commanding situation (all the towns and villages in this part of the country are thus situated & all bear the appearance of having been formerly fortresses). This town is said to be of celebrity in the time of Julius Caesar. It commands a beautiful view of the country all round it, which is open & richly cultivated, there is on one side a fine forest. Beautiful well cultivated country.

  [Unfortunately a page is missing covering 7-12th June]

  13th To a village off the main road & about 4 leagues from Bordeaux called Portets, an exceedingly pretty village and a great number of very ni
ce country seats belonging to gentlemen in Bordeaux.

  14th Through Bordeaux & encamped about an English mile beyond it, in a field where the Duke of Wellington reviewed our regiment & the 52nd after the march; this was the most oppressively hot day I have felt this year.

  15th To a large moor about 2 leagues from Bordeaux where the greater part of the army are encamped.

  16th Rode to camp & returned to Bordeaux.

  17th Visited the palace54, a simple neat building & the cathedral which is also very simple & neat. I admire its interior much, though I believe it is not generally liked. The exterior is as with almost all cathedrals, blocked up with rambling houses.55

  18th Rode out to camp.

  As the army patiently waited at Bordeaux for shipping either to America or homeward, a number of officers, James included, requested leave of absence to sail home independently.

  19th Applied for leave to England.

  20th Got leave for 2 months. Went to camp for my baggage.

  21st Returned.

  22nd Visited the asylum for deaf and dumb.

  23rd Set off for Pauillac 10 leagues down the river, the rendezvous for transports. Went as far as Ambes where we slept not being able to go any further until the night tide.

  24th To Pauillac, there are a great many officers here waiting for passages.

  25th – 26th Blank

  27th Embarked on board the Concord brig of Shields56 bound for the Baltic, she is to land us in the Channel. Lay at anchor all night.